Thursday, January 30, 2020

SALMON




The only salmon I ever remember seeing when a child were pictured on cans in grocery stores. Same for my boyfriend. We were both raised on the east coast of the USA and both grew up enjoying seashores from Maine on south to Florida. Atlantic salmon were scarce back then apparently due to overfishing and habitat destruction.


My boyfriend and I met in Florida in the early 70s.
 We were both in our twenties and both drawn to ocean and wilderness exploration. With a plan to take advantage of his veterans' benefits, we chose to move to Sitka, Alaska. He had applied and been accepted at Sheldon Jackson College with the intention of working towards a degree in Forestry or Fisheries. We both had jobs at the time, but very little in the way of savings. Hmmm. What to do? We decided to visit with the owners of a lovely, large, neighboring home obviously in need of a paint job. We were hired for the job! The homeowners got a good deal, and we earned the amount of money we figured we would need for the trip.

Off we drove across the United States and on up to Prince Rupert, British Columbia in a trusty old panel truck. We purchased the truck with some of our travel funds.
Our retired panel truck.



The truck was filled with camping gear, a few possessions and our St. Bernard.
JAKE the WONDER DOG



On the very day we arrived in Prince Rupert, British Columbia ours was the last vehicle to barely fit inside the ferry. Such a relief! After we paid all the fees, we had a mere fifty dollars remaining! 
Dumb luck.


Travelling north by ferry through the Inside Passage of Southeast Alaska was absolutely enchanting

Upon our arrival in Sitka, we drove directly from the ferry terminal to the college. Out we hopped and took a short walk for the sake of our dog. 
We could not believe our eyes!
Thousands upon thousands of salmon were crowded together as far as the eye could see in Indian River! 
A local resident explained to us that the salmon were totally dedicated to reproductive spawning. After spawning, these fish would waste away and die.
We were speechless. 




Thus began our lives in a magical world.



My boyfriend (who became my husband) proved to be a remarkably successful college student. However, after completing his first year of college, he was hired as a deckhand on a fishing boat. He was hooked. That job launched his life long career as a fisherman.

Sadly, it did not work out for the two of us to stay together as a couple.

But, looking on the bright side, we journeyed together and transported each other all the way across North America to Southeast Alaska... where we both have lived happily ever after. 

For many years he lived the life of a successful commercial fisherman... power trolling for salmon.


Best of all, we have a bright, multi-talented son who grew up to be a successful sport, subsistence and commercial fisherman... power trolling for salmon!
                                                                                                                                                 photo by  D. Corbell


So there you have a little bit of history. 









ON TO SALMON...


The Department of Fish and Game (ADF&G) is responsible for managing fish and game in the state of Alaska. In these parts, sport fishermen need to follow the regulations found in the annual 
Southeast Alaska Sport Fishing Regulations Summary:

The stated mission of the Division of Sport Fish is to protect and improve the state's recreational fisheries resources. Because ADF&G may change fishing regulations by emergency order at any time, especially for salmon, I am not going to get involved on this post with very much in the way of regulation details. If you are a sport fisherman, best to stay tuned for emergency orders widely announced via news media, recorded ADF&G hotlines and ADF&G offices.
Whether you are hoping to catch fish in fresh or salt water, best to get your own personal copy of the annual Summary and become familiar with the 
  • Licensing Requirements
  • Regional Regulations
  • General Regulations
  • Special Regulations

There is a lot of information to consider... but you will be glad you did.









LET'S FOCUS ON FOUR OF THE SALMON SPECIES FAMILIAR TO MANY SITKANS... 
PINK, SOCKEYE, COHO and KING




PINK (HUMPY) SALMON 
Oncorhynchus gorbuscha

                                                                                                                               Alaska Department of Fish & Game
Decades ago, when seeing salmon for the first time as they spawned in Indian River, I assumed that all salmon were alike. No, in fact, there are a number of salmon species. The salmon in that river I mentioned were PINK SALMON.
Quite often, PINK SALMON is the canned salmon found in grocery stores. Typically living no more than two years, PINKS are the smallest  and most abundant species of salmon usually weighing in at no more than 5 pounds.

PINKS are also referred to as "HUMPIES" because, come spawning time, the males stretch out a bit and develop a hump as seen in the illustration above. The snout and lower jaw also become hook like.

When you catch PINKS, you will notice unusually small scales under lots of slime!

PINK SALMON are anadromous. This means that they live and feed in the ocean and then migrate up streams and rivers to breed in fresh water. Here is a photo of PINKS schooling up in the brackish waters at the mouth of a river before swimming up into the river's fresh water to spawn.
In the photo above, we were looking down from a bridge crossing the river where it meets the ocean. 

Below you can see salmon and our shadows down in the ocean with the rising sun behind us.



The sport fishing season for PINK SALMON is open year-round. 

Unless announced otherwise:
  • 16 inches or longer: 6 per day, 12 in possession.
  • Less than 16 inches: 10 per day, 10 in possession.
  • No annual limit.

PINK SALMON are included in the Alaska Department of Fish & Game Sitka Management Area.

SOUTHEAST SALMON 
SUBSISTENCE AND PERSONAL USE PERMIT
YES, a permit is required. See the explanation and all of the forms required further on in this post in the section about SOCKEYE SALMON.

You will find that from July 15 - September 30 you are allowed to have 100 PINK SALMON in possession with no annual limit! 


Forty years ago, the youngest of my four brothers came to visit me from Massachusetts. He stayed for several years. I think the PINK SALMON had a lot to do with his decision to settle down in Sitka. Like so many newcomers, he watched in awe as the PINKS schooled up late in the summer. And, like so many newcomers (including me), he was eager to snag some of these salmon. 

When fish are schooling up in the ocean in preparation for spawning and are not interested in biting a baited hook or lure, it is legal to snag. To "snag" means to hook a fish elsewhere than in its' mouth.

"Have you ever seen so many fish?" 

They were countless!  

And, yes... they taste good! 

During his first year here, my brother got a job, got gear together and rebuilt a small kayak. Once qualified for a sport fishing license, he proceeded to cast out his line and snag PINK SALMON in the same bay where I first snagged PINK SALMON!



As with any fish we catch and intend to keep for consumption, we make it a point to clean the fish (remove gills, blood and guts) right away. Then we keep it clean and as cold as possible. If we do not plan to eat our fish soon after the catch, we quickly process it. We cut the fish into meal size portions, vacuum and label with contents and date.



Into the freezer it goes.



We also do a lot of canning... plain or smoked. More often than not, when we smoke seafood, most of it gets devoured before it ever makes it to a freezer or canner. Smoked salmon is incredibly delicious!


Ready to eat some fresh PINK SALMON? 

Although not as oily as other salmon species, these pale pink salmon are delicious roasted, broiled, grilled, baked, fried, steamed and poached. This photo displays my love of salmon sautéed with a coating of sesame seeds:



With its' delicate flavor, it is well worth the time it takes to give canning PINK SALMON a try.  Yum.










SOCKEYE (RED) SALMON
Oncorhynchus nerka
                                                                                                                  Alaska Department of Fish & Game
This anadromous species has a variety of names, but here in Alaska fishermen usually call it SOCKEYE or RED SALMON. 
SOCKEYE typically live in the ocean for two to three years and weigh in at up to seven pounds. When preparing to spawn, these salmon find their way to rivers and waterfalls leading to a fresh water lake. 
Sockeye prefer to spawn in lakes. Young SOCKEYE spend from one to two years in their freshwater lake before swimming out into the salty ocean to begin the cycle anew.

The Department of Fish & Game has regulations for sport fishing for SOCKEYE in fresh and salt waters.
Rather than scrutinize sport fishing for SOCKEYE, let's focus on what so many Sitka residents pursue...

SOUTHEAST SALMON 
SUBSISTENCE AND PERSONAL USE PERMIT
SOCKEYE, PINK, CHUM & COHO

Here is the annual permit you will need to acquire from the Department of Fish & Game:


Below are the three pages of information & guidelines you will need to follow:


There are a surprisingly large number of locations in the Sitka area to find and catch SOCKEYE. Check out the location column: 





Let's focus on Redoubt Bay.
Redoubt Bay and Lake are an inviting boat ride south of Sitka in fair weather.

Once upon a time there was a boat lift up into Redoubt lake. The lift was at the end of Redoubt Bay to the left of the falls that pour out of Redoubt Lake. The lift was most likely provided by the U.S. Forest Service.

I was fortunate enough to take advantage of the lift before it was removed. It was not all that large. If I am remembering correctly, small and medium sized boats up to maybe 15 to 20 feet in length could slide into a holder from the ocean. Once positioned in the lift, take a quick climb up attached stairs. From the platform at the top of the stairs, the boat was hand cranked up maybe 10 feet or so and was easily transferred into Redoubt Lake. It was a thrilling and memorable adventure to skiff the perimeter of this surprisingly long lake.


SOCKEYE SALMON find their way into Redoubt Lake every year around midsummer. Lots of local residents have enjoyed annual visits to the waters in and around the waterfalls (where the lake meets the ocean) hoping to catch SOCKEYE. It can be challenging. It can be entertaining! Lots of factors play into success and failure... gear, number of fish, weather, tides, bears.


Looking back...

Family fun fishing for SOCKEYE back in the 1980's. 
A lengthy log stretched across the falls. It was tempting for those with good balance to try dip netting.


Sitting felt safer. Lucky guy. He scooped up plenty of SOCKEYE and did not fall in! The boys were on shore nearby ready to grab the fish.







Crazy fun dip netting for SOCKEYE in 2004. Spinning around at the base of the falls, we managed to stop laughing long enough to catch a few fish. 
                                                                                                                                                     photo by  Dona McKee                                                                                                                



The weir at the top of the falls is a counting location and control point for salmon entry into Redoubt Lake. The weir is operated by the U.S.Forest Service. 
There were so many SOCKEYE returning to Redoubt Lake the summer of 2019 that a special notice was issued of an increase in the catch limits!




Occasionally you will see people dip netting up near the weir. This particular day was obviously a good day to stay clear of the weir. Look close. Bears prevailed!





I personally don't hesitate to give the bears their space! There are several additional prime locations to succeed with a dip net at Redoubt. Consider the height of the tide and whether or not the SOCKEYE are plentiful. 
The couple in the photo below had an admirable system going. When the tide was right, he handily caught the SOCKEYE with a dip net and she hauled them off to safety...




As mentioned before, it is important to clean fish as soon as possible and get those beauties on ice.

Flavorful and oily, SOCKEYE are worthy of a variety of preparations for consumption. Nevertheless, our preference is to simply filet, smoke and can our SOCKEYE. But not always in that order.



Frequently, we filet, smoke, eat our fill... and then can!


Did I mention how irresistibly delicious smoked SOCKEYE is?



And, good thing we canned plenty of SOCKEYE. 
It is such a treat to crack open a jar in winter.






JALAPENO SALMON is an excellent combination of ingredients we like to preserve together in jars. The flavor is unusual and unbeatable!











COHO (SILVER) SALMON
Oncorhynchus kisutch
                                                                                                   Alaska Department of Fish & Game
This anadromous species is referred to as SILVER or COHO. Let's go with COHO. Averaging around eight pounds, COHO will grow up to 20 pounds or more during the three years it spends in the ocean. Then it is back to fresh waters to spawn at the end of life. 


COHO SALMON are often plentiful and an excellent fish to target mid-summer through late fall. Even though you are not likely to catch COHO outside of summer and fall, the salt water sport fishing season for this species is open year round. Here are the limits:

16 inches or longer: 6 per day, 12 in possession
less than 16 inches: 10 per day, 10 in possession



COHO SALMON is another of the salmon species included in the Alaska Department of Fish & Game Sitka Management Area Personal Use and Subsistence Salmon Fishing Program.


SUBSISTENCE AND PERSONAL USE FISHING FOR
COHO SALMON
See the information specific for COHO at the very bottom of this information page:




In the photo seen below is an unusually talented friend. Fishing surely tops her list of talents. I have been fortunate enough to spend enough time with her to learn valuable new fishing skills! Check out her beautiful smile after catching this beautiful COHO!
                                                                                                                                                        photo by Ben Dent


Fishing for COHO is often fun and exciting because they are inclined to bite a lure both at the mouth of rivers as well as upriver in pools. 
CAUTION IS THE WORD HERE!!! 
 Don't be surprised to see lots of bears in and around rivers when fishing for salmon late summer and early fall! 



When it comes to eating COHO, they taste mighty good roasted, broiled, grilled, baked, fried, steamed, poached or smoked. So versatile!  

I especially enjoy sautéing (fry lightly) salmon in a pan with a little butter and chopped fennel from the garden. Of all places, I read about this dish years ago in a gourmet cooking magazine while sitting in a dentist's waiting room!

Whether plain or smoked, canned COHO is a handy, delicious staple throughout the year.  












CHINOOK (KING) SALMON
Oncorhynchus tshawytscha
                                                                                                                        Alaska Department of Fish & Game
Have I saved the best for last? Not wanting to play favorites, I suggest you try eating all of the species discussed in this post... and decide for yourself!


KING SALMON are the largest of all of the salmon species. Although most years KINGS have averaged 15 to 25 pounds in weight, it is not all that unusual to catch much heavier fish. And, when checking record books, KINGS ha
ve weighed in at over 125 pounds! 


For perspective, both of the men in the photos below are over six feet tall. Father and son. Big fish eliciting big smiles!



                                              photo by D. Corbell
                                                                            


The flesh of KING SALMON is near red. Surprisingly though, about one in ten KING SALMON have nearly white flesh and are referred to as WHITE KINGS. 
No, the color difference does not interfere with the quality or the sensational flavor. No matter the color, KING SALMON are rich in fat and firm in texture.


It is fascinating when examining the life cycle of salmon in a little more depth. As mentioned earlier, salmon eggs hatch in fresh water streams, rivers and lakes. Once hatched, the baby salmon 
(also known as fry) head downriver towards the ocean. As they mosey along in the river's fresh water, the fry  memorize the scent of this home stream. 

After four to six years of feeding and surviving in salty ocean waters, the anadromous KING SALMON head towards home. It is believed that all salmon, including KING SALMON, have the uncanny ability to navigate primarily by using the earth's magnetic field. This ability to find their way back to the area of origin is, apparently, a genetically inherited trait. Once nearing home waters, a salmon will swim around until it recognizes the scent of its' fresh water origins. That familiar scent then stimulates the salmon to swim upstream where it will spawn in a gravel bed before it dies. 
Mind-boggling! 




Let's have a look at the REGULATIONS concerning KING SALMON.

Other than the Yakutat Area, fishing for KING SALMON in fresh waters is CLOSED.

In general, fishing for KING SALMON  in salt water is open year-round. The length needs to be 28 inches or longer.. NO RETENTION LESS THAN 28 INCHES

Any time you intend to fish for KING SALMON it is wise to check with the Department of Fish & Game. The bag, possession, annual and size limits are established by emergency order as specified in the Southeast Alaska King Salmon Management plan.
Any or all of these limits can and do change periodically.

Be sure you have followed the statewide regulations for sport fishing KING SALMON: 
  • Everyone is required to have a SPORT FISHING LICENSE.
  • Everyone is required to have a HARVEST RECORD when harvesting any species with an annual limit.
  • Determine whether or not you need a KING SALMON STAMP.
Page 6 in the 2020 in the Alaska Department of Fish & Game Southeast Alaska Sport Fishing Regulations Summary covers the above issues:


As far as the gear used to sport fish for KING SALMON, I will leave that to you to research on your own. There are lots of opinions about the best rods, reels, line, down riggers, flashers, depths, tides, currents, locations, bait, lures and more! 
What worked best for me was to go out fishing, whenever possible, with people who already knew what they were doing. Learn from the best!



In case you need some inspiration, here you go!  



























Here is that little guy in the photo above... all grown up!














































                                                                  photo by Tachi Sopow





So much family fun fishing in our local 
 SALMON DERBY!

















SMOKING SALMON

SIMPLE SMOKED SALMON


STEP ONE - BRINING 
DONE IN THE EVENING
  • CUT SALMON INTO PIECES APPROXIMATELY 2” WIDE, 4” LONG AND 1” TO 2” DEEP
  • MIX A BRINE OF EQUAL PARTS OF WATER, BROWN SUGAR AND CANNING SALT. WE OFTEN USE A “BIG CHIEF” SMOKER WITH 4 OR 5 RACKS. ABOUT 10 PIECES OF FISH FIT ON EACH RACK. SO, FOR SAY 50 PIECES, I WOULD LIKELY MAKE A BRINE UP OF 2 CUPS EACH OF WATER, BROWN SUGAR AND SALT. STIR IT ALL TOGETHER INTO A LARGE BOWL OR POT (PREFERABLY STAINLESS STEEL).
  • ADD THE FISH PIECES TO THE BRINE. SOAK THE PIECES IN THE BRINE   FOR NO MORE THAN 15 MINUTES, STIRRING OFTEN.
  • WHILE RUNNING FRESH WATER INTO THE POT, RINSE EACH PIECE CAREFULLY AND PLACE THE PIECES INTO A COLANDER TO DRAIN.

  • SET THE RINSED AND DRAINED PIECES ONTO A CLEAN TOWEL OR RACK ON A COUNTERTOP... OUT OF THE REACH OF ANY PETS!
  • OPTIONAL: TOP THE PIECES WITH COARSE PEPPER OR SEASONINGS.
  • LEAVE TO GLAZE OVERNIGHT.

    STEP TWO - SMOKING 
    THE NEXT MORNING
  • PLACE THE PIECES OF FISH ON THE SHELVES AND INTO THE SMOKER.
  • ADD WOOD CHIPS TO A PAN BELOW THE SHELVES.
  • PLUG IN THE SMOKER!
  • WHEN THE WOOD CHIPS TURN TO ASH, EMPTY THE ASH AND ADD ONE
    MORE PAN OF CHIPS. REMOVE THE PAN WHEN IT TURNS TO ASH.
  • CHECK FOR THE FIRMNESS YOU PREFER THROUGHOUT THE DAY.

    STEP THREE STORAGE
    • STORE IN A CONTAINER IN YOUR REFRIGERATOR TO EAT FRESH.
    • FOR LATER USE, VACUUM PACKAGE PIECES FOR THE FREEZER.





COOKING SALMON

Here are a bunch of cookbooks with endless salmon recipes. It's amazing how innovative Alaskans often were with limited ingredients on hand. How about cooking up some salmon pancakes?



The most important consideration when cooking fish is DO NOT OVERCOOK!!! Unfortunately, it happens far too often. Fish requires surprisingly little cooking time... and continues to cook a little more after removing it from heat.

There are several basic methods of cooking salmon.
Let's refer to the simple and clear explanations found in this little, well-worn cookbook:


BROIL
The quickest way to prepare and serve salmon is to cook it in your oven on the broil setting for five to eight minutes on each side depending on thickness. 
Salmon steaks and fillets are good prepared this way. 
Brush lightly with lemon butter before cooking.
The fish should be placed on a pan two to six inches from the broiling element.
Watch carefully as it cooks.


                               
POACH
Poaching is a favorite preparation. Below is one example of a medium sized poaching pan:



The poaching method can be used to cook fish steaks, fillets or whole cleaned fish. Fish are delightfully moist after poaching. Water, lemon juice and a little salt make an adequate poaching liquid, but Court Bouillon is often recommended in cookbooks. In the recipe below, other liquids can be substituted for the white wine if you wish. I have used water, chicken broth or apple cider vinegar. 








STEAM
Steaming salmon is another method of preparation insuring a moist outcome.
Wrap the steaks or fillets in cheesecloth and place it on a rack above the water in a pot partially filled with water. Bring the water up to a boil. The pot should be covered loosely. Allow the fish to steam for twelve to fifteen minutes per pound.




BAKE
An easy and common method of preparing salmon is baking. 
A whole fish can be baked with or without stuffing.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. 
  • 5 lb fresh salmon
  • 3 large onions thinly sliced (I like to add fresh beach asparagus when in season)
  • 2 lemons thinly sliced
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 2 crushed garlic cloves
Wash and pat the salmon dry.
Line a baking sheet with foil and place 1/2 of the lemons and onions on the center area of the foil.
Stuff the cavity of the fish with the remaining onions and lemons.
Place the fish on top of the onions and lemons on the sheet.
Mix the garlic and olive oil together and brush it on the top of the fish.
Cover with foil and seal the fish inside the top and bottom foil. 
Bake at 400 degrees for 15 minutes per pound or until the fish flakes when touched with a fork. 
Serves 4 - 6.




This cookbook is beautifully illustrated and contains some unique, gourmet recipes:


The recipe below was outstanding. Click on the photo and it should enlarge enough to read the directions. It was such a treat using our garden fresh french sorrel.



BON APPETIT!










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