BRASSICAS... broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and more

Late March or early April is a good time to start some of the more than twenty vegetables known as BRASSICAS. 
Brassicas are also known as COLE CROPS. 
Cole crops are also known as CRUCIFEROUS VEGETABLES!

Besides being high in fiber, brassicas are highly nutritious. Don't cook away the nutrients.  Eat brassicas raw or barely cook them. It is best to steam, stir fry, roast, barbecue or saute. 

Let's concentrate on the following six:
                               BROCCOLI
                               BRUSSELS SPROUTS
                               CABBAGE
                               CAULIFLOWER
                               COLLARD GREENS
                               KOHLRABI
All six of these vegetables evolved from the single species, Brassica oleracea.  

The same seed starting procedure will be followed for all of the six brassicas listed above. Before we talk about the seed starting, let's visit a little bit about each of these six plants.









BROCCOLI

There are many varieties of broccoli. We have enjoyed every one of the many varieties we have tried. 
Here are some favorite varieties. Many are available from Territorial Seed Company:
ARCADIA
BELSTAR
DECICCO EXPRESS
EMERALD CROWN
EVEREST
EXPRESS
FIESTA
GREEN SPROUTING CALABRESE
PACKMAN
SOUTHERN COMET
WALTHAM


Although most people focus on eating the flower buds, the stems and leaves of broccoli plants are edible, too. Peel away the outsides of thick stems and enjoy the tender interior whether raw or cooked. 

We often find that the large central flower heads of our broccoli plants are ready for harvest by the end of July. Sometimes earlier. 

A remarkable trait of broccoli is the plant's ability to produce lots of florets after the large central head has been harvested. The side florets start out quite large. The side florets continuously decrease in size as you harvest throughout the summer and into fall. 

Even if you are growing several different varieties of broccoli, you might find an overwhelming amount ready to harvest all at the same time!

When we have an abundance of broccoli ready for harvest, its fun to share with friends and neighbors. Another option is dehydration. Broccoli dehydrates nicely. It also freezes well. Whether dehydrating or freezing broccoli, a brief soak first of a minute or two in boiling water is necessary. This process is called blanching. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS
When I was a kid, my least favorite vegetable was brussels sprouts. Even though my taste buds have matured and I grow my own vegetables, I think it is the recipe that makes all the difference for me when it comes to brussels sprouts. Take the time to ask and hunt around for popular brussels sprouts recipes. Try a few recipes. You just might add this vegetable to your favorites list. I did!   

As is true of broccoli, there are many varieties of brussels sprouts from which to choose. We have been pleased with all of the many varieties we have grown. Here are a few favorites:
CATSKILL
DIABLO
LONG ISLAND
ROODNERF
RUBINE

The brussels sprout plant is happiest in cool weather with lots of rain or watering. This is also true of the other brassicas listed above. However, brussels sprouts are comparatively slow growing early in the season. The sprouts look like tiny cabbages growing first from the bottom and then gradually on up to the top of the tall stalk. There is a sprout with every leaf! 

The flavor seems to be at its best if you wait until after the first fall frost to harvest. Harvest the lowest of the sprouts when the size is to your liking and work your way up. It helps to remove the lower leaves on the mature plants. This seems to result in more energy going into sprout growth.

Brussels sprouts will survive with no problem throughout winter. They are very cold tolerant. We really look forward to large harvests for Thanksgiving and the winter holidays. When the sprouts have all been eaten, the little bundles of greens at the top of the plants are edible and delicious!




Favorite method of cooking brussels sprouts? ROASTED!

• Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
• Pick a bunch of brussels sprouts... two dozen or so.
• Rinse.
• Remove any bad outer leaves.
• Slice sprouts in half.
• In a bowl, toss the brussels sprouts in 3 tablespoons of olive oil or some other vegetable oil.
• Spread the brussels sprouts in a baking dish.
• Sprinkle generously with garlic powder, salt and pepper.
• If you like, sprinkle on some red pepper flakes.
• Flip the sprouts with a spatula after 10 minutes.
• Roast another 5 or 10 minutes until nicely browned.

CABBAGE

We certainly have the perfect climate for growing brassicas. Cabbages literally glow in the cool, moist Sitka garden!

Looking at the research, it is worth your while to grow each type and color of cabbage. They are all highly nutritious, but each type has its own superiority in the area of nutrients. There is the standard green, also referred to as white, in the photograph above.

Another type is savoy cabbage:

The many varieties of savoy cabbage have an obviously different texture than basic green cabbage... and a much milder flavor. It is a great addition to stir fries and vegetable soups.


A third type of cabbage is red, also known as purple:

As with many intensely colored vegetables, red cabbage is packed with nutrients!

We have grown many varieties of each of the three types of cabbage and have enjoyed them all. 

The cabbages will be ready for harvest as early as July depending on the weather and the variety you choose. We usually enjoy eating a cabbage every week or two throughout the summer and fall. Cole slaw is a favorite. Try it with a variety of dressings. And, it is fun project changing cabbage into sauerkraut!

Cabbage handle the cold weather well enough to leave them in the ground well into winter, if there are any left! It helps to mound mulch around them. Cabbage store well in a root cellar type environment, too.

Given the right conditions, cabbage have been known to grow to an unimaginable size!

Varieties we have enjoyed:
ALCOSA
BOBCAT (slugs are not attracted to this one in our gardens)
CLARISSA
COPENHAGEN MARKET EARLY
DANISH BALLHEAD
DEADON
DERBY DAY
EARLIANA
EARLY JERSEY
EARLY JERSEY WAKEFIELD
FAMOSA
FERRY'S ROUND DUTCH
GOLDEN ACRE
JANUARY KING
MATSUSHIMA
RED ACRE
RUBY BALL
TIARA










CAULIFLOWER

Cauliflower is not only delicious, but it is also quite the sensation in the garden. In the old days, there were pretty much only white varieties available. 

EARLY SNOWBALL VARIETY

AMAZING VARIETY

Look at the colorful varieties available now! And do cauliflower do well in Sitka?     Oh, my! YES!

GRAFFITI VARIETY

AMAZING, CHEDDAR AND GRAFFITI

What to do with these beauties?  Eat it raw in salads or with dips. Steam it, roast it, stir fry or coat cauliflower florets with tempura for a quick deep fry. 

A fairly recent favorite for my family is to turn cauliflower into what looks like mashed potato. Steam it briefly and whip it in a mixer. Add your favorite condiments or seasonings. Be creative! There is no end to the flavors mashed cauliflower will accept.

Another surprisingly delicious and simple cauliflower preparation is dehydration. Unlike broccoli, no need to blanch cauliflower first. Simply cut into small florets or pieces. Fill your dehydrator. (We usually dry our veggies completely at about 115 to 120 degrees). Dehydrated cauliflower is crunchy with a nutty flavor. Eat these little gems as a delicious snack. Add them as a final, crunchy topping on salads. 

Store in a cool dry location and your dried cauliflower will maintain its nutrients and crunchiness for a very long time. What a great way to preserve this beautiful brassica!

There is so much moisture in cauliflower that it took about a dozen large dehydrated heads to fill this gallon jar!

Varieties we have enjoyed:
AMAZING- white
CANDID CHARM - white
CASSIUS - white
CHEDDAR - orange
FLAME STAR - orange
GRAFFITI - purple
PURPLE OF SICILY - purple changes to green when cooked
SNOW CROWN - white
SNOWBALL - white








COLLARD GREENS
A few years ago, a visitor to our gardens professed his love for collard greens. I had never grown them or eaten collard greens even though I had lived in the deep south of Mississippi for a few of my teenage years. These were years before I had any interest at all in eating vegetables!

So, I made it a point to grow some collard greens for this man the next year. Even though he moved away before they were ready for harvest, I was still glad I grew them. They are delicious! Collard greens have a mild, cabbage like flavor. Of course, like many brassicas, it has a lot to do with the recipe and preparation. I have not done much experimenting with collard greens, but already love them sautéed with onions and garlic. It helps to crumble up something like almonds or cooked bacon and sprinkle it on top!

VARIETIES WE HAVE GROWN

One of my first collard plants!

KOHLRABI

Never ate kohlrabi? Never heard of kohlrabi? You are not alone.

For many years, I would sow kohlrabi seeds directly into a garden bed in May. Because I have grown to cherish this brassica, I don't leave growth to chance. It seems wiser to start my kohlrabi seeds in 4" pots when starting the previous five brassicas. This way the number and placement of plants is defined.

The kohlrabi has an interesting design. The root grows in the ground. The large bulb we love to eat grows just above ground. Leaves grow out from, and all around,  the bulb!

Based on research, both green and purple kohlrabis are nutrient-rich. The purple kohlrabi might be just a little more nutritious... as with other deeply colored brassicas.

Once the kohlrabi bulb is sizable, cut away the leaves and root. Peel the bulb. Kohlrabi can be cooked many ways, but we prefer to eat our kohlrabi raw. Cut raw kohlrabi into small pieces or slices for a quick snack. Grate kohlrabi into salads. Eat raw chunks with your favorite dips.

Kohlrabi varieties we have grown and enjoyed:
EARLY WHITE VIENNA
KONGO
PURPLE VIENNA
SUPERSCHMELZ









NOW FOR A QUICK LOOK AT STARTING THESE BRASSICAS FROM SEED:

FIRST FILL 4 INCH POTS WITH POTTING SOIL.

PLACE THE FILLED POTS IN SOME SORT OF TRAY OR CONTAINER. WE FILL OUR POTS AND CONTAINERS OUTSIDE SO WE DON'T MAKE A MESS INDOORS. THEN WE CARRY THE FILLED CONTAINERS INDOORS.

MAKE  TWO DIMPLES IN THE SURFACE OF THE SOIL NO DEEPER THAN 1/2 INCH.

PLACE ONE SEED IN EACH DIMPLE.

LABEL EACH 4 INCH POT.

COVER OVER THE SEEDS AND THE ENTIRE SURFACE  OF EACH POT WITH A THIN LAYER OF FINE SAND OR POTTING SOIL. PLACE THE CONTAINERS IN YOUR WARMEST LOCATION OR ON A SEED STARTING HEAT MAT.

GENTLY AND THOROUGHLY MOISTEN EACH OF THE 4 INCH POTS WITH ROOM TEMPERATURE WATER. WE HAVE A HOSE WE ATTACH TO A MUD ROOM FAUCET THAT REACHES THE ROOM AND WINDOWS WHERE OUR CONTAINERS ARE LOCATED. 

LOOSELY COVER THE ENTIRE CONTAINER FULL OF 4 INCH POTS WITH PLASTIC.

REMOVE THE COVER PERIODICALLY TO WATER. KEEP THE SURFACE MOIST.

IT WILL USUALLY TAKE ANYWHERE FROM ONE TO TWO WEEKS FOR BRASSICA SEEDS TO SPROUT. 

ONCE THE SEEDS HAVE SPROUTED UP THROUGH THE SURFACE OF THE POTTING SOIL, REMOVE THE PLASTIC COVER PERMANENTLY.

HOPEFULLY BOTH SEEDS IN EACH POT WILL SPROUT INTO A PLANT. EVEN ONE PLANT PER POT IS FINE. THESE BRASSICA PLANTS WILL BE STAYING IN THESE 4 INCH POTS INDOORS IN A WARM LOCATION WITH THE BEST LIGHT YOU CAN OFFER UNTIL THEY GROW QUITE LARGE. FOUR TO SIX WEEKS IS GOOD.

WITH THE PLANTS IN THE SAME POTS, FERTILIZE THEM LIGHTLY AND TRANSPORT THEM OUT TO A COLD FRAME OR GREENHOUSE WHERE THEY WILL STAY FOR A WEEK OR TWO. THIS IS CALLED HARDENING OFF. THE PLANTS GET ACCUSTOMED TO THE COOLER NIGHT TIME.

BY THE END OF MAY, YOUR  BRASSICA PLANTS SHOULD BE PLANTED OUTSIDE. A RAISED FERTILE BED NEEDS TO BE PREPARED IN ADVANCE. 

SEPARATE EACH OF THE PLANTS BY GENTLY EMPTYING EACH OF THE 4 INCH POTS AND CAREFULLY SEPARATING THE TWO PLANTS FROM EACH OTHER.

DIG A GOOD SIZED HOLE BY HAND OR WITH A TROWEL FOR EACH PLANT. 

PLACE THE PLANT IN THE HOLE AND FILL WITH SOIL AROUND THE ROOTS. THE SOIL SHOULD COME UP AROUND THE STEMS TO THE HEIGHT OF THE FIRST LEAVES. HIGHER IF THE PLANT IS LEGGY. IT WON'T HURT THE PLANT.

PRESS THE SOIL FIRMLY AROUND THE PLANT. NOT TOO FIRM!

NOW MAKE A SOMEWHAT WIDE WELL AROUND THE PLANT SO THE PLANT LOOKS LIKE IT IS IN A BOWL. 

FILL THE BOWL GENTLY EACH TIME YOU WATER, WHICH SHOULD BE OFTEN, AT LEAST ONCE PER WEEK, IF IT IS NOT RAINING HEAVILY.

COVER THE ENTIRE PATCH OF BRASSICAS VERY LOOSELY WITH A FLOATING ROW COVER. LEAVE PLENTY OF SLACK. HOLD THE EDGES OF THE COVERS DOWN WITH WHATEVER HEAVY ITEMS YOU HAVE HANDY. WE USE ROCKS AND OLD REBAR.

THE PLANTS WILL LIFT THE COVER AS THEY GROW. A FLOATING ROW COVER IS MANDATORY OR YOU WILL LOSE MOST OF YOUR BRASSICA PLANTS TO ROOT MAGGOTS. THE COVER KEEPS THE FLIES AWAY THAT LAY THE EGGS THAT EAT THE ROOTS OF THE PLANT. THE COVER ALSO INCREASES THE WARMTH OF THE SOIL MAKING THE PLANTS MUCH HAPPIER HERE IN SITKA. NO WORRY. SUN AND RAIN PASS THROUGH THE FLOATING ROW COVER. ANY FLIES YOU SEE TRAPPED UNDER THERE AFTER PLANTING ARE OF NO CONCERN. THEY USUALLY COME WITH THE FERTILIZER, ESPECIALLY IF IT IS THE HIGH TIDE LINE SEAWEED. THOSE FLIES WILL DIE AND BECOME MORE FERTILIZER!

YOU WILL NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE FLOATING ROW COVER TO WATER. YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE FLOATING ROW COVER FOR WEEDING. WHEN YOU HAVE FINISHED WEEDING, COVER THE PLANTS AGAIN. 

SADLY, YOU WILL ALSO NEED TO REMOVE THE COVER TO DEAL WITH SLUGS. SLUGS GO CRAZY OVER BRASSICAS!

HOPEFULLY UNCOVERING AND PICKING OFF ANY SLUGS YOU SEE EARLY IN THE SEASON WILL DO THE TRICK. WITH OUR RAIN, SLUGS ARE ALMOST GUARANTEED TO BE A PROBLEM EVEN IF YOU CAREFULLY SCRUTINIZE YOUR BRASSICAS ON A REGULAR BASIS. SPRINKLING A LITTLE SLUGGO EVERY COUPLE OF WEEKS AROUND THE BASE OF EACH PLANT WILL HELP. NOTHING SEEMS TO ELIMINATE SLUGS ENTIRELY ONCE THEY HAVE FOUND YOUR GARDEN. PEOPLE DON'T OFTEN FIND THEM TO BE A PROBLEM THE FIRST YEAR. AFTER THAT, GET USED TO COMPROMISE. YOU WILL BE SHARING YOUR BRASSICAS WITH SLUGS. IT IS AS IF THE SLUG EGGS RAIN DOWN FROM ABOVE!

PERENNIAL VEGETABLES

THIS POST INCLUDES THE PERENNIAL VEGETABLES LISTED BELOW. SCROLL DOWN TO READ ABOUT ANY OR ALL OF THEM.
ASPARAGUS
BUCKSHORN PLANTAIN
CHIVES
EGYPTIAN ONIONS
GOOD KING HENRY
HORSERADISH
LEMON BALM
LOVAGE
RHUBARB
SEA KALE
SEDUM
SORREL
STINGING NETTLES

PERENNIAL is one of my very favorite words. You gotta 
love not only the flexibility of this word, but also the definition... 
LASTING AN INDEFINITELY LONG TIME.

Our perennial flowers and vegetables have become old friends. Seriously. Show them kindness and consideration, and perennials will arrive early in spring for a long, welcome visit year after year. Not only are they old friends, but they come bearing delicious, nutritious gifts!

Some perennial flowers are edible, but let's concentrate on vegetables for now. According to the article PERENNIAL VEGETABLES: GROW MORE FOOD WITH LESS WORK  in the April 2012 issue of MOTHER EARTH NEWS, there are more than 100 species of perennial vegetables growing in North America. This does not mean that all 100 will do well in Sitka. However, you can be assured that the perennial vegetables described below have, in fact, done well in Sitka. 




ASPARAGUS (Asparagus officinalis)
I have a lot of experience eating asparagus. It enhances so many meals. And, it is so delicious when eaten fresh and raw. Just snap off the new shoot at ground level and munch away. 

We were prepared with a spacious, fertile, warm, sandy, well-drained garden bed in our sunniest location for our first asparagus crowns. Asparagus like a soil pH of around 7. The crown is the root system of the asparagus plant. It was many years ago when we bought one year old asparagus crowns from the seed company SEEDS OF CHANGE. At the end of April we spread each of the crowns' roots in a circle in a wide, shallow hole, 6 to 8 inches deep, about one foot apart. We then refilled the holes housing the new occupants with fertile soil. We covered the entire bed with a floating row cover to promote more warmth. Skinny asparagus grew the first year. The instructions, to my dismay, were to let the asparagus continue to grow into feathery fern-like greens that first year. No harvesting the first year! These long lived perennials (15 years or more) are so worth the wait. The paperwork said we would be harvesting 1/2 lb. of spears per crown each year thereafter. It was true! Very few asparagus spears made it to the table though. We all would snap them off and eat them whenever we got the chance. Especially me.

If memory serves me well, we planted JERSEY GIANT, JERSEY KNIGHT, and SWEET PURPLE asparagus crowns. Male hybrids are the best producers. They live long and have strong yields.












BUCKSHORN PLANTAIN (Plantago coronopus)
Buckshorn plantain is also known as minutina or herba stella.  The young leaves are shaped a little like antlers. They make a yummy addition to any salad with a taste sweeter and nuttier in flavor than spinach or kale. It is very tasty on its own lightly steamed. Buckshorn plantain leaves make a soothing soup. Later on in the season, the flowers are a delicious addition to salads as well.

Buckshorn plantain thrives in cool rainy weather and does not mind saline soil!  It is so suited to Sitka! Cut the plant back, and it will re-grow several times throughout the season. Even after it flowers, the leaves are still tender for eating. It will overwinter, but I start more plants each year from the abundance of seeds produced by these plants. They often reseed themselves, too. Plant 10 inches apart.

BUCKSHORN PLANTAIN, YOUNG AND TENDER

BUCKSHORN PLANTAIN STARTING TO SEND UP FLOWER STALK IN CENTER

BUCKSHORN PLANTAIN BED PREPARING TO FLOWER

CHIVES (Allium schoenoprasum)
In 1976 I was presented with my very first perennial vegetable by my delightful neighbor, Stevie Thielke. We were outside visiting when Stevie dug up a huge clump of chives and sliced it right down the middle with a shovel.  "I would like to share this with you, Florence."  Yes, it is a vivid and fond memory. Since that spring of 1976, that clump of chives has been divided and shared countless times. Now, in spring of 2015, Stevie's chives are peeking out of the ground in gardens all over Sitka!

CHIVES EMERGING IN SPRING

Pick or cut off chives as much as you need as soon as they are tall enough to grab. Once a clump of chives grows tall, before flowers bloom, use a sharp knife and cut all of the remaining chives off of the plant one inch above the ground. This can be done 4 or 5 times throughout the summer. The chives will grow back each time like a lawn does. It is a great way to have an amazing amount of chives all season to eat, share or preserve. Chive pesto is delicious, by the way!

A CLUMP OF CHIVES CUT BACK TO ONE INCH

Chives freeze well! When I have an abundance, I chop the chives. 

Then I sprinkle them onto a cookie sheet and freeze them for a few hours. The frozen pieces are transferred into a ziplock and stored in a freezer. They stay green, bright and as good as fresh for months!
I simply shake out what I need and then replace the ziplock with the remaining chopped chives into the freezer... until I need some again. 

IF NOT TRIMMED, CHIVES BLOOM IN SHADES OF LAVENDER.

EGYPTIAN ONIONS (Allium cepa)

Also known as walking onions, this perennial likes well drained soil. The leaves are tubular. The stems don't grow flowers, but rather a little bundle of bulbils. The bulbils are still enclosed in a casing in the photo above. These little bulbils will actually grow some tiny leaves of their own. As the weight of the growing bulbils increases, the stem bends until finally touching the ground. Once on the ground, some of the little bulbils will take root and start a new plants. Reproduction was rapid in our garden. We had lots of walking onions after one or two seasons! It is easy to pull up or dig up a clump for sharing.

How to eat? The bulbs in the ground can be dug up at any time and used as you would any onion. Bulbs are mild in flavor like a shallot. The stems and leaves have a very strong onion flavor. Hot! The bulbils are tasty. They don't need peeling until they mature.














GOOD KING HENRY (Chenopodium bonus-henricus)
Good King Henry is a popular perennial vegetable in Europe. It is the asparagus-like shoots that are prized. The leaves, flower buds and seeds are also eaten. Also considered an herb, it is rich in vitamin C and iron. Well established Good King Henry plants can be divided for sharing in early spring. However, we started the plants in our yard from seed three years ago. Plants should be spaced about 2 feet apart. The seed info suggested waiting three years before doing any harvesting. This is our first harvest year! Early shoots and greens are tender and delicious. Briefly steam Good King Henry  on its own or with other early greens like dandelions, nettles and sorrel. Even after flowering has begun, steamed leaves and flowers are tasty.
Good news: this perennial likes moist, well drained soil in partial shade!

TENDER LEAVES AND SHOOTS OF GOOD KING HENRY
APPEAR IN EARLY SPRING.

LATER IN THE SEASON, GOOD KING HENRY ABOUT TO FLOWER

HORSERADISH Armoracia rusticana

HORSERADISH ROOTS ARE PRETTY MUCH INDESTRUCTIBLE. BY BRUSHING ASIDE THE MULCH, THE TOP OF THE HORSERADISH ROOTS ARE EXPOSED. 

                          NOW THAT YOU HAVE HAD A PEEK, 

            LET'S COVER THE ROOTS AGAIN WITH FERTILE SOIL.

Horseradish grows well in moist soils in sun or partial shade.

It may come as a surprise, but young horseradish leaves are edible, mild and flavorful when lightly steamed.

MIDSEASON HORSERADISH

People often grow horseradish to use as a condiment... a spicy sauce or relish. For use as a condiment, harvest only the side roots in late summer or fall. Leave the central taproot for continued growth. The side roots need to be cleaned and peeled. Chop and mix in a blender with a little water. Blend in a little salt and vinegar before storing in a container in the fridge.














LEMON BALM (Melissa Officinalis)

Lemon balm is commonly defined as a mint or herb. Because it is a wonderful addition to salad, it is included here as a perennial vegetable. 
Pick a large handful of lemon balm leaves. The leaves will add a delightful burst of lemon to any salad. And, without question, lemon balm leaves make the best of teas. Fresh leaves crushed in your drinking water adds a refreshing touch and taste.

Although lemon balm starts readily from seed, it makes more sense to dig up a start from someone with a mature clump in their garden. Plant your lemon balm in well-drained, fertile soil. It does not mind partial shade.











LOVAGE (Levisticum officinale)
When I told a friend, Jeanne Longstreth, how much I love celery, she suggested I grow lovage. I am so grateful for her suggestion! Lovage is an early season perennial vegetable that tastes a lot like celery. Harvest the early shoots of lovage along with sorrel. Together they cook into a delicious, mild flavored soup. 

NEW SHOOTS OF LOVAGE IN MARCH

If you wait until lovage is mature, it tastes like celery times a thousand! Way too strong to eat!

LOVAGE ON ITS WAY TO MATURITY

Our lovage was started from seed. It has grown and flourished in well-drained fertile soil in partial shade. These beautiful plants will grow to well over 6 feet tall! Divide and share in late fall or very early spring.

RHUBARB (Rheum x cultorum)

Many people think of rhubarb as a fruit. 
In fact, rhubarb is a perennial vegetable. 

When you see lots of rhubarb shoots emerging in spring, divide and share. This is necessary at least every five years... or the plant will be crowded with smaller and smaller stalks.

RHUBARB EMERGING IN MARCH. IT'S TIME FOR THIS PARTICULAR PLANT TO BE DIVIDED AND SHARED.

Rhubarb likes a cool climate and is a heavy feeder. Fertilizer should be nitrogen rich. Chicken manure has worked well for us sprinkled on the ground around the plant. Loose seaweed from the high tide line spattered with herring eggs after the herring spawn works well, too. 

This giant variety of rhubarb has been grown and shared by many Sitkans  for decades.

You would think such large rhubarb stalks would be tough with an unpleasant taste. In fact, this rhubarb is tender and flavorful. One stalk is more than enough for a pie!

RHUBARB PICKED FOR A PIE!

Rhubarb leafstalks can be eaten raw, but are usually cooked in pies and sauces. One of our daughters baked us this beyond delicious strawberry rhubarb pie!

We discovered that mixing strawberries together with rhubarb and cooking it up into a sauce is also an unusually delicious treat. What you get is an incomparable sweet and sour sauce! 

In some countries, rhubarb stalks are chopped and cooked into stews and soups adding a tangy flavor and lovely color.

*It is important to keep in mind that only the stalks of rhubarb are edible. The leaves, roots and flowers of rhubarb cause sickness and even death.














SEDUM (Sedum spectabile)

Who would have thought that the common ornamental, sedum, is a delicious edible vegetable! Sedum is a perennial vegetable happily growing in many a Sitka garden. This plant has attractive little pink or white flower heads often buzzing with bees. Any of the ornamental varieties of sedum are edible.

Grow sedum in well-drained fertile soil in sun to part shade. They easily grow from seed and readily spread. Divide and share from a healthy sedum clump in early spring. 

At any time in the growing season, use the leaves whole or chopped into a salad. Sedum is surprisingly juicy and flavorful!













SEA KALE (Crambe maratima)

BEAUTIFUL EARLY SUMMER SEA KALE

It was so exciting to discover this versatile, palatable, perennial vegetable. What a fascinating plant. After reading about sea kale, it sounded perfect for Sitka. Sea kale is found wild along the shorelines of Europe and Great Britain. Part of the brassica family, sea kale looks and tastes a lot like a mixture of cabbage and broccoli. 

This early perennial vegetable provides food throughout the season! New shoots in spring have an asparagus flavor.

NEW SEA KALE SHOOTS IN MARCH

Young sea kale leaves and stems are tender and delicious in salads, steamed, stir fried or sauteed. The flavor is similar to mild cabbage.

YOUNG SEA KALE LEAVES READY FOR STEAM OR SAUTE

Late summer leaves, stalks, buds and flowers are reminiscent of broccoli in appearance and taste.

TENDER AND TASTY SEA KALE FLOWER BUDS

What looks like a  a large seed pod is actually the tiny fruit of sea kale:

Once dried, the fruit is a little cork-like ball. It floats! 

Inside each small ball is a seed. 

Years ago, I ordered my seeds from FEDCO SEEDS. They still carry sea kale seeds, but you will need to order early.

Here is some information from the seed catalog. Click on it to enlarge:

In order to plant the seeds in spring with good germination, you will need to: 

• Stratify the little balls in late March (put it in your refrigerator in a plastic bag or ziplock for a month or in the freezer for two weeks). This process breaks the seeds' dormancy and helps the seeds germinate faster.
• When you remove the little balls from the freezer, score the seed cover (carefully make a little slice or nick in the seed cover. I do this with my fingernail). 
• Start indoors in 4" pots. Bury about 1/4" deep. I like to put two or three of the covered seeds per pot. Germination is not that great.
•  Place in a warm location and cover the tray of 4" pots loosely with plastic.
• Remove the cover once the seeds have sprouted.
• Move plants outside into a greenhouse or protected spot for hardening off in early May.  
• Transplant starts out into the prepared garden bed mid to late May.

Dividing sea kale plants to share with others has not gone well for me. Too many damaged roots. Instead, I have had extra plants growing and would dig up entire mature plants for sharing. Beware the roots go deep and sideways. Otherwise, starting seeds works fine. It just takes a while. You will be harvesting from large, mature plants by the third year when started from seed.

SORREL (Rumex scutatus)

Sorrel, an early spring perennial vegetable, has deep roots happily growing in acid soil. We have a large, healthy plant growing in gravel from a stray seed in our yard! A carefree plant! There are many varieties of sorrel to choose from. We chose a french sorrel noted for low oxalic acid. Literature discourages excessive  consumption of oxalic acid because of its effect on calcium. It sounds like you would need to eat an enormous amount for it to be a problem.  Just in case, our sorrel was started with these seeds:

Once established,  the large, healthy clumps of sorrel are easily divided for sharing. In fact, dividing sorrel regularly is good for its health!

In early spring, the tender, bright green sorrel leaves are so welcome and so delicious. They are a treat for breakfast in omelets or hot egg and cheese open face sandwiches.

Sorrel soup is really special. 

What else?
Sorrel sauces can easily be made for fish or meat.
Sorrel is a welcome addition in salad. 
Layer some leaves in your baked dishes. 
Blend a large handful of sorrel into a smoothie or green drink.

The drink below was made from water, banana, blueberries, sorrel, yogurt and a little orange juice. Delicious and refreshing!

                                                 

When the leaves grow tall and shoots appear for flowering, we cut back the entire clump to 4 or 5 inches... and the growth starts all over again! We do this 3 or 4 times throughout the season and enjoy plenty of sorrel. The tart, lemon flavored leaves can be harvested and enjoyed throughout the season. 

Want to store some sorrel for winter? Gather a bunch of the leaves and place them directly in a ziplock bag... or vacuum seal them. They freeze well. We use our frozen sorrel throughout the winter. 

STINGING NETTLES (Urtica dioica)
Often regarded as a weed, nettles spread by means of shallow rhizomes. The more fertile the soil, the happier the nettles... except in shady spots.

Nettles are a spring tradition! In early spring, harvest the nutritious shoots and leaves. Be sure to wear gloves! Steam, make into soup, quiche or stir fry. Once cooked, the sting is gone.

Propagation is simple. Dig up and relocate a clump from your nettle patch. Wear gloves! Lots of gardeners like to keep their nettles in containers. 

Because there were no nettles around when my interest was peaked, our nettles were started from seed... a gift from my friend, Hope Merritt. 

         MULCHING  PERENNIAL  VEGETABLES
To nourish and protect perennials, lay a thick blanket of organic matter, a mulch, all around the plants in late fall. Protection from freezing weather and erosion prevention are among the benefits of mulching. 

My first few years of gardening in Sitka, I collected massive amounts of fallen leaves for mulch. It did not take long to notice that our beaches hold a wealth of mulch and fertilizer at the high tide line.

A wide array of seaweeds break loose from the sea floor in rough weather and wash up to mix with such things as evergreen needles, alder leaves, fish bones and broken shells.

Early in April, herring eggs are often added to the high tide line mix after the annual spring herring spawn. In fall, dead salmon carcasses wash out from streams. It all piles up at the high tide lines. Grab it and haul it away when you see it! Otherwise, the next higher incoming tide just might grab it all and pull it back into the depths of the sea!

Helpful perennial vegetable books:

HAPPY GARDENING!!!